Moriones Festival, Marinduque, Philippines

Marinduque, also known as the heart of the Philippines due to its geographic location and shape, is a stranded island almost 3 hours journey in ferry ship from nearest mainland port. 

Way to Marinduque

Boac, Moriones

We were still not able to finalize our destination for 4 days surprise holidays coming in early April. Most of the hotels and means of transport were fully booked. We had some recent trips to beaches and highlands and hence there was a thirst to explore something different. When one of our local friends told about Moriones festival celebrated during Holy Week in Marinduque, I got itchy feet.

Moriones

Finally uncertainty cleared when we took last minute decision to take risk and try our luck with bus and ferry ticket instead of sitting at home. I came back from office, took one hour to pack bag and headed to Jac liner bus station, Cubao.

Stay in Marinduque was pleasant and I must say that it was one of the most unique experience. Slow moving and peaceful place was crowded during Holy week due to local and foreign tourists. We were astonished to see the honesty of people and also their eagerness to help tourists by making them comfortable with the festival and locality. Jeepney and tricycle also never tried to charge us extra. No wonder, Marinduque ranked number 1 by the Philippine National Police and Philippine Security Force as most peaceful province with no crime record.

It took almost an hour to travel in Jeepney from Balancan port to Boac city of Marinduque. We checked in our hotel around noon and after a quick nap and refresh, headed to the open air theatre where Moriones festival was organized. Although, Moriones, in their nice costume, did a nice welcome at the port but we were eager to see the festival ceremony.

Moriones festival goes for one full Holy week. We managed to witness major part of festival on Thursday, good Friday and Saturday.

The festival demonstrates the story of Jesus, the prophecies, the birth, life and teachings, passion, death and resurrection.  

"Way of the Cross" re-enacts the suffering of Christ as he carried his cross to Cavalry along with two other men who were considered culprit. Moriones (locally known here, wearing costume and mask as roman soldiers) whip & punish them all the way around city with a leather thonged whip which ends on a hill(Golgotha) where Christ is crucified along with other two on both sides. There were a group of people called "flagellants" whipping themselves with round pieces of wood or bamboo marching behind the Jesus. There was real dried blood on their body. We learnt from a fellow local that they get skin deep razor cut before they start whipping with wood. After the ritual they will go to river or sea and wash their wounds. It is said that bath which is done on good Friday heals the wound quickly without leaving any mark.

Crucifixion Process.

The complete procedure was followed by a crowd of tourists as well as locals shouting and trying to feel Jesus pain. One of the Morion pierced Jesus in his side with spear after crucifixion. According to story, Longinus was the name of the Roman soldier and he was blind on one eye. Some of the Jesus blood fell upon his eyes and he was healed. The event was nicely demonstrated in the play.

The complete theatre play ended by 2-3 PM and when we headed for lunch.

Next big event which was supposed to be played on Sat evening at 7PM. The event name was "Beheading of Longinus".

We took the evening time to escape to the island beautiful sunset scene and natural hot water spring in Buena Vista, another city of Marinduque. Island is also blessed with Boracay like white sand beach in Torrijos but moriones was our major attraction point. We roamed around in Boac, visited oldest cathedral, local market and Museum. We joined again in the Expo for next event of Moriones festival before sun went down.

Series of theatrical presentation started which was perfectly planned and organized. Right from costumes, sound effect, lighting and actors in the play everything was properly planned. I was not expecting such a nice presentation in a small city like this. They also made an elevated area in the open air theatre to give a real effect of Golgotha, mountain on which crucifixion happened. Complete play was in Tagalog (Philipino Language) and definitely a tough time for us to get the full story.

The play ended with beheading of Longinus and the whole city sitting in open air theatre enjoying the play got up and headed for dinner. 
Month before the festival, costumes, equipments and sites are checked and prepared. Then the participants and director rehearsal multiple times before final day. Many volunteers to play this role while others visit their homeland to be a part of this festival.

Moriones festival recordings uploaded in youtube.

   

Travelling to Marinduque: There are buses from Cubao and Buendia bus station to Lucena port, nearest port to Marinduque. We boarded bus in Cubao. Bus was available at every 5 minutes. It takes approx 4-5 hours.

You will get ferry from Lucena port to Balancan port which runs every 2 hours. It takes 3-4 hours to reach Balancan. RoRo (roll in roll out) timing 

Roro Timing

Jac Liner have direct bus facility to Marinduque which runs every day at 5 PM and is most comfortable way to reach this island. Advance booking would be required if you are travelling during peak season. Expect a very long queue for bus and ferry if you have no advance booking.

There are jeepneys from Balanacan and Cawit port to different cities of island.

Return Journey was much comfortable with no waiting time. Once you are out of Ship at Lucena Port, you can see queue of buses there.

Hotels and accomodation: Hotels are in range of 1000P to 2000P in Boac city. There are many resorts at reasonable price as well. "Boac hotel" is much advertised but I prefered "Tahanan sa Isok" more because of their friendly staff and clean room. Swimming pool is added facility here.

"Lucky Seven Pension hotel" is also good hotel in Boac although handled by only one old lady so don't expect any nice service. There is no online booking center but you can directly call and book. 
Accommodation options are also available in other cities of Island.


Food: Food is easily available at reasonable price across island. There are many small restaurants. I was expecting more of seafood since but chicken and pork was mostly available in Boac restaurants.

We discovered "Shrine Restaurant" which was close to Tahanan sa Isok hotel and had nice seafood list in menu. Chilly crab was nice there.

reference: http://www.marinduque.gov.ph/

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